PARIS FASHION WEEK A’W: DAY 2
Day 1 at Paris Fashion Week challenged traditions with designers surging ahead into unknown terrains of fashion. Day 2 saw an array of designers offering a range of aesthetics on the runway. From collections inspired by collisions (Yang Li) to a collection where couture met casual (Dries Van Noten), things got pretty interesting on the runway. Here’s a brief rundown of collections straight from the Parisienne runways.
Cédric Charlier: The collection showcased by the designer featured garments that were clean, minimalistic and very utilitarian. With traditional clothing given modern touches here and there, the range had an evergreen appeal. An array of colours drenched the garments in peachy pink, green, navy blue and deep wine. Pleats were shown in a variety of styles from an A-line dress with wide pleats at the center with narrow ones on the side to a strapless plunge-neck dress in tones of wine and navy blue. Exotic fur in oversized coats were shown in solid colours of peach and patches of navy blue and dark green. The designer wittily created illusions of a thinner body frame as dark colours were added to the sides of light-colored ensembles. Towards the end of the collection, stripes of varying thicknesses made their way into skirts and short dresses. The overall looks were complemented by ankle-length boots in varying tones.
Yang Li: The collection showcased by the Chinese designer was inspired by the concept of what happens when two opposites collide, even what happens before and after it. Inspired by his heritage, there were oriental touches seen in the collection. The showcase began with sharply tailored outerwear in bold tones of red, black and smoke grey. The initial showcase featured coats in varying hemlines both single & double-breasted, an asymmetric leather dress and an iridescent blazer paired with straight-fit pants. As the collection moved on, the silhouettes got relaxed and loose. Silky metallic flared pants, tops and knee-length dresses worn over/under black outfits created a visual contrast. A burst of expression came about when ensembles created from bonding silk and aluminum in shades of steel, camel and Bordeaux emerged on the runway. Gradually towards the end, the silhouettes got softer touches with ensembles in thick-silk like the floor length dress with a wide belt worn over it. The collection had a graceful and lyrical tone to it. While the makeup was pale with Marsala lips, the hair was swept back for a clean look. Black leather lace-ups were seen throughout the collection.
Dries Van Noten: While collection showcased by the acclaimed designer imbibed a clean aesthetic, it featured a burst of colours and artisanal techniques on garments ideal for evening wear. A riot of colours with Earthy tones like khaki, gold, dark brown and copper, cool tones like lilac, peachy pink and pale blue and an abundance of classics like ruby red and navy-blue gave a vibrant appeal to the collection. Floral prints on pencil skirts, tops, ankle-length coats and regular-fit dresses added a classic touch. A dash of bling was added with embellished blue sequins on zipped-up jackets, a striped cardigan and a narrow-fit pencil skirt. An element of opulence was incorporated with shearling coats and stoles with fur trimmings on selective pieces. The designer effortlessly incorporated many elements together to achieve a rich look.
Rochas: The collection by Alessandro Dell’Acqua had a sober colour palette with dashes of marigold yellow. A range of outfits with hemlines till the knees or below it reminded us of the 1950s era. The showcase began with dirt-brown outfits such as A-line dresses with a bow at the neck, notch lapel coats and a strapless two-piece combination. The designer incorporated simplicity of designs with luxurious fabrics such as fur. A swallow motif, Dell’Acqua’s signature was incorporated onto sleeveless regular-fit dresses including the sheer-chiffon ones shown towards the end along with a wing-tip collared shirt and a pale-blue coat. Lace details and embellished pieces in black oozed femininity and sex-appeal.
Alexis Mabille: The designer showcased a range of stylish outwear ensembles. Clever focus was paid on garment constructions and drapes to achieve a desirable effect. Metallic pieces in silver and bronze created a fluidic appeal. The colour palette mainly comprised of dull and sober shades of pastel blue, pink, navy, shades of grey, white and black. The collection oozed wintry aesthetics with lacey items such as skirts, fitted pants, tops and opulent fur details on outfits for example. There was a sense of casual-cool as matching tops with fitted-pants made their debut on the runway. Makeup was kept minimal with hair tied high. Open-toe sandals accessorized the looks throughout the collection.
Photo Credits: Vogue UK, Getty Images, Fashionising